Balmar MC-618 regulator with SmartLink integration, first look

Ben Ellison

Ben Ellison

Panbo editor, publisher & chief bottlewasher from 4/2005 until 8/2018, and now pleased to have Ben Stein as a very able publisher, webmaster, and editing colleague. Please don't regard him as an "expert"; he's getting quite old and thinks that "fadiddling fumble-putz" is a more accurate description.

18 Responses

  1. Richard West says:

    Can you tell me if the MC-618 regulator and the Bluetooth gateway can be used together, without the smart shunt and SG200 battery monitor? I’m really happy with the battery monitoring I have now (Victron BMV-712) but would love to be a be able to monitor and set my alternator regulator with my phone.

    • Ben Ellison Ben Ellison says:

      Sorry, Richard, there has to be a SmartShunt on the system to power the Bluetooth Gateway (or SG200 gauges). You can see in the photos that all components link with four wires — including a red/black power pair — except the MC-618, which only uses the data pair.

      I was going to suggest that you could work around this by powering the Gateway separately but my multimeter suggests that the SmartShunt outputs 4.6v to the SmartLink network, not 12v, and so that idea seems dicey. But Balmar does offer a shunt/gateway kit — https://www.hodgesmarine.com/balsg205-balmar-sg205-battery-monitor-kit-wbluetooth-gat.html — and you’d end up with a second opinion to your BMV-712.

  2. Grant Jenkins says:

    Ben, thanks for the update on the MC-618. On a somewhat related note- it’s been mentioned here and in other posts that you’re replacing your Firefly housebank with a new system. I think the other Ben may have mentioned you have been less than happy with the Fireflys. As I have recommended these to several others, and am getting ready to buy my own set, can we expect an in-depth analysis of what you experienced at some point? I’ve really not heard anything negative elsewhere…. Thanks!

  3. Wolfgang says:

    Nice to see more and more (boat parts) manufacturers realize a dynamo should be an integrated part of an energy system.
    I am over 20 years satisfied with Mastervolt Alpha regulators (Masterbus versions not available at that time) and switching to a complete Mastervolt installation (including updated Alpha regulators).
    Unfortunately Masterbus is a fairly closed system (everything need to be Mastervolt or something from their group), whereas Victron is more open minded.
    Anyway, regardless which choice you make, ensure the dynamo charges your house battery directly with proper sized gauge wire and is connected to the energy monitoring system for power management.

  4. Larry Olson says:

    Just got off the phone with Balmar, and I’m putting on two new alternators/ 618s, Centerfielder to combine them and a monitor.
    They suggested the SG 210 over the SG 200 in that the 210 can be updated and the 200 not so. However, I’ll call back and see the NMEA schedule .. that would be better yet and probably worth waiting for if not too long.

    • Ben Ellison Ben Ellison says:

      Hi Larry, At first your post confused me, but then I realized that Balmar is simply suggesting having a SG200 (aka SG2-0300) Bluetooth Gateway on your new SmartLink network. Their SG200 kit is just the SG2-0200 gauge and SG2-0100 smartshunt while the SG210 adds the gateway. (But each can be purchased separately.)

      At any rate, I think that all those components are available and also that they gave you good advice. Besides firmware updates, you’ll get complete MC-618 configuration and troubleshooting with the gateway and Balmar’s app.

  5. Hans Johnson says:

    If you’re running a Victron ecosystem on your boat, the WS500 is definitely the way to go for an alternator regulator. Latest firmware for both integrates the Wakespeed into the Cerbo, letting the system monitor and control it to precisely put out what the batteries require. All the communications happens over CANBus, making things pretty simple to wire up.

  6. I upgraded to this system (SG200, Bluetooth Gateway and MC618) from an older Balmar regulator and Xantrex battery monitor. It’s great to be able to see how the system is performing from a phone at the helm but disappointing to see how poorly the regulator manages the transition from Absorption to Float. Best option for our system seems to be a long Absorb Time coupled with a “Force to Float” switch which I haven’t installed yet. Does anyone know it this can be a “momentary” switch that forces the transition and then the regulator stays in Float until increased load causes it to go back to Absorb? I hesitate to use a toggle switch due to the risk I’d forget to turn it off and not charge on our next run.

    • Richard West says:

      Not an exact answer to your question, but for switches that I think I might forget (propane or LPG for example), I use a mechanical timer switch kind of like this one: https://www.mcmaster.com/7014K48/

      Might that work?

      I’m considering using one to force a cool-down period for my alternator before shutting down my engine.

    • Roy van der Sluis says:

      I use an On – Off – (on) switch , where On puts me in small engine mode (50% field regulation), and (on) for the force to float. (On) is momentary . This works great. If at the dock and fully charged we just use force to float, it will switch back to normal operation under load as specified. We also use a long absorb time to avoid early transition to float.

      We use small engine mode when batteries are low, we have a cold engine and are trying to get out of port with low engine speed , this takes some alternator load of the engine. However we only have a 34hp engine which being nearly 40 years old is down on power, and I think we are over propped as idle speed is over 3 knots.

  7. Robyn says:

    Hi Ben,
    I’m installing the MC-618, smart shunt with display, and the Bluetooth gateway. My mind is boggled at how to connect the regulator to the smart shunt. The regulator came with two little green heat shrink booties over the 10&11 posts, which it says to attach the smart link green and whites too. It also said the harness is provided, but the ends have ferrules and there are 4 wires. Since there was no Deutsch connector wire included with SG200 battery monitor and shunt, I used the extra Deutsch connector to snap on the four ferrules and connect the monitor display. The Bluetooth gateway comes with a Deutsch connector, which I’ve connected to the other Deutsch input on the shunt. As you pointed out, the included harness is quite long, and I could split it up to make another with the connector snap on ends, but I’m confused as to where to connect the regulator to the other pieces. The display also has two Deutsch input spots, so maybe I put the Bluetooth gateway there? Or would I just swap the displays as desired or have to get a two-to-one splitter for Deutsch connectors. Your photo at top of page leaves out the full wire runs, which is unfortunate. Can you please advise? None of the manuals show the full diagram. Thanks!

    • Ben Ellison Ben Ellison says:

      Hi Robyn, It sounds like you don’t have the cable splitter / adaptor needed for the MC-618. It’s shown in the top photo and image #3, plus here:

      https://balmar.net/product/sg200-smartlink-communications-cable-sg2-0404/

      Once you have the splitter attached to the regulator, cables with Deutch connectors can go to shunt and display, then BT module to either. You can also make your own cables, as long as power and data pairs go to proper pins on all components except MC-618 which only uses the data pair.

      Incidentally, this setup has been working quite well on Gizmo this last year, and is great for seeing how our main alternator is working with the new Victron lithium battery bank, and opitimizing performance.

  8. Tim Leighton says:

    Follow up question. Have a Balmar 618 that I recently installed on our Krogen 48 trawler (house bank of 10 6v wet cell batteries in series/parallel). Programmed the regulator for wet cell batteries. Been underway away from the grid for a few days. When we start out the alternator puts out a good 130 amps (it’s a large case until the Victron monitor shows we are down to -105 Ah and then drops to float (12.8 volts) and never recovers. Even with solar pumping in amps (as much as 35 amps during mid-day), the deficit climbs to 110 Ah. This is with normal equipment operating (house loads, autopilot, plotters, etc.). I’m going to contact Balmar again, but thought I’d put this out here and see what suggestions others may have. Thanks.

    • Ben Ellison Ben Ellison says:

      Tim, I think it’s quite possible that your 618 is going into float mode because your battery bank is full and the actual issue is battery monitor inaccuracy regarding state of charge. In my experience, Victron and other such monitors have trouble keeping an accurate amp hour count, especially when solar panels are in the mix.

      But you’re in luck as Ben Stein just posted an article about how to get the best accuracy from a Victron:

      https://panbo.com/installing-and-configuring-a-victron-battery-monitor/

      • Tim Leighton says:

        Thanks Ben. You are most likely correct but we anchored about an hour ago and I’m already seeing 12.49 volts. In the past (I had an older Xantrex regulator made my Balmar) even with some house loads I’d be at 12.6 or so at this point. Guess it could also be the batteries. They are 4 years old but have been well maintained and not “stressed” beyond normal usage. I’ll read Ben Stein’s article. Thanks for the help.

        • Ben Ellison Ben Ellison says:

          Well, that doesn’t sound good. But you can try adjusting the Balmar settings and I note that one section of Rod Collins’ comprehensive how-to is called “Avoid Premature Float” ( https://marinehowto.com/programming-a-balmar-voltage-regulator/ )

          Also, I don’t know if you’ve tried adjusting the 618 with the magnetic pen but the SG200 gauge is a whole lot easier, and the app even more so. Plus you get to see the results in realtime without trying to decipher the 618’s tiny LED and you’d also end up with a second opinion about the battery bank’s SOC.

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